Every guide on this blog assumes you already know which printhead your machine uses. Most people don't — not until they're staring at a failed head trying to figure out what to order. This is the guide for that moment.
Why guessing is expensive here
Printhead families within the same brand are frequently not interchangeable, even when they look nearly identical. We've covered specific examples of this across our guides: Epson's i3200-A1 vs. i3200-U1 vs. i3200-E1 suffixes indicate different ink chemistries on the same physical platform, Ricoh's GH2220 isn't a substitute for a Gen6 head despite looking similar, and Konica's KM1024 MHB/MHE variants use different drive electronics on the same nozzle plate design. Ordering the wrong variant because you guessed from a photo is one of the most common — and most avoidable — expensive mistakes in this industry.
Where to look, by brand
Epson-based heads (including Roland, Mutoh, and Mimaki machines using Epson engines): Check the small printed or laser-etched code directly on the head's flex cable or housing — Epson part numbers (like FA09xxx or F1080-A1) are usually stamped on the head itself, not just in the printer's menu system.
Ricoh: Look for the MH-prefix code (e.g., MH2420, MH5320, MH5420) on the head's label. If the label is worn or missing, your printer's service manual will list the exact Ricoh part number for your specific printer model — never assume based on your printer's generation alone.
Roland: The printer model itself is usually the fastest path here — see our Roland DX4/DX5/DX7 guide for which head family corresponds to which printer generation.
Konica Minolta: The KM1024 suffix (MHB, MHE, etc.) is printed on the head's data cable connector housing in most cases. If you can't read it, your printer's parts catalog (available from Konica or your printer's original supplier) will specify it exactly.
Xaar: Xaar heads are typically labeled with both the series number (1003, 128, etc.) and a suffix indicating drop size class — see our Xaar 1003 GS6 vs GS12 guide for why that suffix matters even when two heads look identical.
Kyocera: Industrial single-pass systems using Kyocera heads almost always specify the exact model (KJ4A-TA, KJ4B, etc.) in the printer manufacturer's service documentation — this isn't something to guess from the head's exterior.
Fuji/Dimatix: The StarFire family alone covers several variants — SA-2C, MA-2C, MA, and more — that look nearly identical but aren't always interchangeable. Get the full model number, dash suffix included, from your printer's documentation rather than assuming from the family name. See our StarFire variants guide for the breakdown.
If you're still not sure
Send us your printer's make and model (and a photo of the head if you have one) and we'll confirm the exact part before you order — it costs nothing to check, and it's a lot cheaper than ordering the wrong $1,000+ head.
Related reading
- How to tell if your printhead needs replacing
- Genuine vs. aftermarket printheads: what you actually risk
- How much does it cost to replace a printhead?
Browse: Printhead Compatibility Database
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